I try to achieve the sculptural feel in jewellery design: Toktam Shekarriz

For ace jewellery designer Toktam Shekarriz, Founder of Dubai-based jewellery design and manufacturing company TOKTAM, life has been a kaleidoscope of experiences that find expression in her work. She grew up in Tehran, surrounded by vibrant colours and the geometrical wonders of the architecture of Iran. Later, she moved to Dubai, where she was influenced by its multiculturalism and heritage. Her next move was to Montreal, Canada where she became fascinated by gemstones and nature’s wonderful process of producing them. She then studied gemology and jewellery making, and moved back to Dubai to launch her own brand, TOKTAM. Her creations marry her Persian heritage with her Arabic influences, picking up bold and artistic forms from contemporary art and architecture.

Here are excerpts from a conversation The Retail Jeweller had with Toktam Shekarriz, about her journey, her inspirations and her signature collections for the upcoming season, ‘Ashkal’, a tribute to the architectural wonders of Dubai, and ‘Sarab’:

What are the major inspirations behind your brand of jewellery, TOKTAM?

My goal is to create wearable works of art, as I believe that jewellery is an outlet for artistic expression. My sources of inspiration are diverse, ranging from nature to architecture, poetry and culture. As I explore these sources, I draw upon a range of emotions, both conscious and unconscious, to bring my designs to life. My jewellery-making process embodies themes of individuality, story-telling, artistic expression and superior craftsmanship. I’m also deeply inspired by the remarkable women I see around me, who exude strength, confidence and determination to make a positive impact on the world, regardless of their profession. Be they mothers, teachers, lawyers, artists, doctors, bankers or from any other walk of life, I am amazed by their unwavering optimism and fearlessness as they leave their mark on this world.

Tell us about your latest collections and signature pieces.

I’ve been working on two signature collections for the upcoming season–‘Ashkal’ and ‘Sarab’. The ‘Ashkal’ collection is a tribute to the architectural wonders of Dubai, featuring diamond and gold creations that showcase voluminous shapes and intricate openwork in each piece. Each design captures the essence of Dubai’s modern structures, with sharp lines and bold shapes that create stunning negative spaces. The use of diamonds and gold adds an air of sophistication and luxury to the collection, and the intricate openwork creates a sense of depth and dimension, akin to the vast open spaces that are a hallmark of Dubai’s skyline.

The ‘Sarab’ collection of jewellery is a fusion of elegance and creativity that show cases the contrast between colour less diamonds and enamel colours. The name ‘Sarab’ itself, which means mirage, suggests a dream-like quality that is evocative of the collection’s unique blend of colours and textures. The diamond’s colourlessness is a stark contrast to the vivid and bold colours of the enamel, creating a sense of intrigue and wonder.

What technological advancements have you included in your designs?

When designing jewellery, it’s important to keep in mind that it’s not simply a flat or two-dimensional object, but rather a three-dimensional sculpture that can be viewed from multiple angles. This means that the design must incorporate depth, form and texture, much like a sculpture would. It’s crucial to visualize the design idea in real life to ensure it provides proper movement and comfort when worn. To achieve this sculptural feel in jewellery design, a variety of techniques and materials can be used. Traditional sculpting methods like carving or moulding can be utilized to create the three-dimensional form of jewellery. Alternatively, computerized software can be used to transform the designs into a 3D shape to identify potential flaws and make necessary improvements.

To ensure a proportionate piece, metal modellers, polishers, and stone-setters must work together. As the overseer of the entire process, it’s crucial to ensure each step is carried out correctly to meet the client’s expectations regarding execution, quality, and style. The goal of achieving a sculptural feel in jewellery design is to create a piece that is not only visually appealing but also has a tactile quality that can be appreciated through touch.

What are the recent design trends that you see in the market, what do consumers prefer?

Red carpet and statement pieces. Our designs are works of art that have a message or story to tell.

Personalization: Customization and personalization are increasingly popular. We allow the consumers to create unique pieces that reflect their individuality and personality.

Vintage and antique styles: Vintage and antique jewellery styles are making a comeback, with a focus on Art Deco, Enamel jewellery and Victorian designs.

Mixed metals: Combining different metals, such as yellow, rose and white gold, adding depth and texture to pieces.

My collection offers stunning options for bold and oversized statement jewellery, which can elevate your look. Incorporating these trends by mixing and matching, striking a balance, dressing for the occasion, personalizing your style, and investing in high-quality pieces for longevity.

Give us an idea of the scale of your operations and number of stores.

TOKTAM is a design and jewellery manufacturing brand that originated in Dubai and is based in the Gold & Diamond Park. Our focus is on exclusivity, which is why we receive clients by appointment only at our atelier and workshop, with a skilled team of artisans who work alongside me. The growth of our brand has exceeded our expectations, and we envision expanding and establishing various branches in different countries in the future.

What distinguishes you from other prominent jewellers of your city?

First of all, individuality – from mixing with bold colours and intricate patterns, I like to play with shapes and create volume and use different types of finishing to make my jewellery bold, statement pieces. Then inspiration–story-telling is important, each piece of jewellery tells a story or represents an idea or inspiration. Most important is craftsmanship, using traditional techniques as well as high-end technological advanced machines and high-quality materials while paying attention to details. Along with it is customization – we offer customers this option, allowing them to personalize their own piece of jewellery. Finally, sustainability is our goal; we use ethically sourced materials like diamond, precious stones and gold.

What is the USP of your brand of jewellery?

The brand’s unique selling proposition lies in its focus on high-quality finishing and innovative designs, as well as its commitment to sustainability through responsible sourcing of materials. We have a dedicated workshop, which enables us to create unconventional pieces with new technology and mechanisms.

What next? What are your future plans, both long and short term?

Since the launch of the company, growth has been faster than expected and I see us expanding and having different branches in different countries in the future. I want people to understand that jewellery-making is a work of art and my pieces are timeless and everlasting.