DANAT expert calls for a clearer distinction between natural and lab-grown diamonds for consumers 

Ziad Khaled of the Bahrain Institute for Pearls & Gemstones (DANAT), shares insights about his work as a gemologist in companies like De Beers, IDL and Mouawad and his learnings from them. He also predicts a rise in demand for melee diamonds

For Ziad Khaled, SeniorInstructor, Bahrain Institute for Pearls & Gemstones (DANAT), his work as a gemologist has been supported by two pillars- being a qualified gemologist and industry experience. Khaled has contributed his expertise to well-known companies, including De Beers, IDL and Mouawad, and spent nearly 10 years as a GIA instructor and four years until now as a DANAT instructor. A graduate from the Gemological Institute of America, Khaled taught gemology classes in the Middle East and East Africa.

Here are excerpts from a conversation The Retail Jeweller had with Ziad Khaled about his learnings, key projects and what he wishes to see in the gem and jewellery industry:

What should be the fundamental considerations for retailers with regard to certification in the business of gems and jewellery in the Middle East?

Gem and jewellery certification provides traders and consumers with the assurances needed to make informed purchases. It is a crucial tool for consumers who want to insure their expensive purchases and one that jewellery appraisers and valuers rely on for accurate evaluations. It is particularly important for resellers in business. People in the Middle East, particularly those in the Arabian Gulf, are extremely fascinated with diamonds and natural pearls and lab-grown diamonds and stones have made a buzz. As a result, consumers are increasingly looking to purchase certified jewellery.

What have been your key learnings as a gemologist working with companies such as Mouawad, De Beers, GIA, IDL, and now at DANAT?

Please share some instances or anecdotes that you may recall. You highlighted the foreign firms I worked for, but I won’t forget the ones back home in Lebanon where I gained experience and learnt the fundamentals of the business before and after receiving my GIA education. My position at Mouawad exposed me to the most magnificent gems and diamonds I had ever seen; for the first time, big diamonds like the Excelsior I (69.68 carats) and the Mouawad Mondera (60.19 carats) nearly covered the entire top of my palm. From the time of its discovery until the discovery of the Cullinan, the Excelsior (971 carats) was known as the biggest diamond ever found.

My key learning from my time working for De Beers LVMH jewellery retail division was a greater grasp of the De Beers organizational structure, which I then used to teach my students.As part of my job at IDL, I had the opportunity to network with numerous regional industry leaders; but my experience there unfortunately coincided with the 2008 crisis, which taught me a great lesson to keep an eye on the global economy in order to anticipate the world economy and act accordingly.

DANAT staff and scientists have in-depth scientific expertise. I learnt that being a gemologist is not sufficient; as a DANAT requirement, an instructor has to become a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (FGA).Throughout the education process to become an FGA, I accumulated thorough knowledge of Bahraini natural pearls in addition to diamonds and gemstones.

What is your view of the Middle East gold and diamond jewellery market? What are the challenges for retailers? The biggest market in the region is Saudi Arabia; I believe the country will lead a significant shift in consumer behaviour and have an impact on the entire Middle East market. Women used to frequently purchase jewellery with large gemstones for their special occasions. I believe there will be a noticeable increase in the amount of less expensive jewellery purchased for everyday use, including melee diamonds, which were traditionally not much sought after among Middle Eastern women. These melee diamonds will bring more glitter to millennials of the region.

What is on your wishlist as a gemologist? What needs to change in the industry? While I am not opposed to lab-grown diamonds, I would like to see a clearer distinction between natural and lab-grown diamonds for consumers. While gemmologists and instructors cannot reach every consumer, they can reach every retailer to educate the staff who deal with the end users and become knowledgeable about the products they sell with full disclosure. Retailers should be required by local authorities to educate their staff in accredited gemological institutes.

By Bushra Satkhed

Retail Jeweller World Exclusive