From Egypt to the World, One Jewel at a Time

Amina Ghali, Head Designer at Azza Fahmy, speaks with The Retail Jeweller about the brand’s evolution from an Egyptian jewellery house to an internationally recognised name, sharing insights into their design philosophy, market expansion, and the brand’s role in shaping the future of luxury jewellery.

Maithili Patange

What began as a small workshop in Cairo has now grown into one of the most recognised luxury jewellery brands in the world. Founded in 1981 by Azza Fahmy, the eponymous brand has built a reputation for cultural storytelling. With a growing presence in the Gulf market and active work to uphold Egyptian craftsmanship through knowledge-sharing, Azza Fahmy remains at the forefront of the jewellery industry, bridging the gap between history and modernity.

Today, the brand has grown into an international presence, with 18 stores spanning Egypt, the Middle East, and London, and a pop-up in the US alongside a thriving e-commerce platform. Azza Fahmy Jewellery is now led by Azza and her two daughters, Fatma Ghali, Managing Director, and Amina Ghali, Head Designer, who continue to shape its future.

EDITED EXCERPTS:

The Retail Jeweller (TRJ): You joined the business in 2005, and since then, Azza Fahmy has expanded internationally, collaborated with fashion houses, and showcased at global fashion weeks. How has the brand’s design journey evolved to cater to a global audience?

Amina Ghali (AG): There is no secret formula—it’s a combination of mindful and strategy-led efforts across design, retail, and brand positioning. My education in Europe, particularly in Italy and England, helped shape my design sensibilities. The challenge was to maintain the heritage of Azza Fahmy’s designs while incorporating contemporary aesthetics to appeal to a broader market. Over the years, we’ve bridged the gap between East and West by modernising traditional Egyptian motifs, making them more wearable and relatable to a global audience.

The rise of social media has also played a significant role. Previously, markets were segmented by geography, but today, it’s more about psychographics. Consumers worldwide seek meaningful jewellery, regardless of location. Understanding these dynamic consumer trends has been critical to our international success.

TRJ: Azza Fahmy Jewellery is known for its distinctive mix of gold and silver. How did this signature style come about, and why is it important to the brand?

AG: My mother, Azza Fahmy, was a pioneer in transforming Egyptian jewellery. Our approach has never been about simply following trends but about setting them. The combination of gold and silver has been integral to our identity since the 1990s when my mother introduced and pioneered this contrast in our Pharaonic Collection. It took years of research and collaboration with Egyptologists to ensure historical accuracy while maintaining a modern aesthetic. This blend not only enhances the depth and detail of our designs but also reflects the natural harmony of colours found in nature. It has become a signature that makes our jewellery instantly recognisable while preserving the craftsmanship that defines our heritage.

TRJ: Do you differentiate between markets when launching collections?
AG: About 95% of our collections remain consistent worldwide. Today’s luxury market is increasingly global, shaped more by shared interests than regional preferences. Brands should segment by character rather than geography, as the internet has created a global consumer. A woman in Saudi Arabia may share the same tastes as someone in London or Brazil. However, Arabic calligraphy holds a unique appeal for regional customers who connect deeply with its meaning. Surprisingly, our calligraphy collections have also resonated in the UK, where clients appreciate its exclusivity. This insight reinforced our belief that jewellery is deeply personal, and while regional preferences exist, universal themes of emotion and storytelling resonate globally.

TRJ: You established a design school in 2013 and a foundation to preserve craftsmanship. What was the motivation behind these initiatives?

AG: Craftsmanship is the backbone of any jewellery industry, but with mechanisation, traditional skills are disappearing. We founded our design school to train new generations in jewellery design, ensuring the sustainability of the craft. Additionally, our foundation focuses on rare techniques, teaching artisan skills like stone setting and model making. These initiatives benefit not just our business but the Egyptian jewellery industry as a whole. When we started the school over a decade ago, some saw it as a move that would create competition, but we viewed it as a long-term investment in strengthening Egypt’s standing in the global jewellery market.

TRJ: Azza Fahmy recently hosted an exhibition in Cairo that brought together key elements of its heritage, craftsmanship, and future vision. What was the driving force behind curating such an extensive showcase, and how did this event shape the brand’s direction moving forward?

AG: This exhibition was more than a celebration; it was a statement of our brand’s journey and future direction. Our goal was to highlight our efforts to preserve Egyptian jewellery traditions while pushing creative boundaries. We curated a four-day experience that showcased our new boutique concept, our first High Jewellery collection ‘Tales of the Nile,’ my mother’s autobiography, and the milestones of The Design Studio by Azza Fahmy and the Azza Fahmy Foundation. The event also featured a panel discussion with industry leaders, offering insights into the evolution of the luxury market in the Middle East.

TRJ: Azza Fahmy has expanded into several key markets, including Jordan, Dubai, Qatar and now Saudi Arabia. How do these markets perform, and which have been the strongest for your brand?

AG: Qatar is certainly a strong market for us, but all our markets perform well depending on the season. The jewellery industry, especially in luxury retail, is highly influenced by seasonal tourism. For instance, business in the Gulf region tends to slow down in the summer, while London sees an uptick in foot traffic during that time. Conversely, markets like Saudi, Dubai and Qatar experience higher tourism during the winter months, particularly around the holiday season. Rather than ranking one market over another, we observe shifting trends that allow different locations to outperform others at various times of the year. Each market presents unique opportunities based on consumer behaviour, travel trends, and economic conditions.

TRJ: In 2023, Azza Fahmy partnered with investment platform Bidayat to drive international expansion. How has this partnership contributed to the brand’s growth since then and what’s next for Azza Fahmy in terms of retail expansion?

AG: The partnership with Bidayat was a pivotal step in our global strategy. Their investment allowed us to strengthen our retail presence beyond the Middle East and the UK, accelerating our expansion into North America. Since then, we have executed successful activations in the US, enhancing the global reception of our brand. We are now focusing on the Gulf region, having opened our first Saudi flagship store in Kingdom Mall, Riyadh, and planning further expansions in Qatar and Dubai. Additionally, our online platform has seen growing demand from American customers, leading to pop-ups in the U.S. Beyond retail, this collaboration has also supported our mission to preserve Egyptian craftsmanship through education and training initiatives.

TRJ: How have fashion collaborations, such as those with Balmain and other designers, impacted the brand?

AG: Fashion Week collaborations offer immense creative freedom. When designing for a runway, jewellery must be bold enough to stand out while complementing the designer’s vision. Our first collaboration in 2007 for London Fashion Week was groundbreaking at the time. Since then, we have worked with multiple designers, cultural institutions like the British Museum, and even unconventional partners like solar energy companies. Each collaboration pushes our creative boundaries and expands our brand’s reach.

TRJ: How has your customer evolved in the past two decades?

AG: Today’s consumers seek jewellery with meaning. They want pieces that tell a story or hold personal significance. We’ve also observed a shift in how jewellery is worn. Traditionally, high-value jewellery was reserved for formal occasions, but now, customers style statement pieces with casual outfits. This evolution in consumer behaviour has encouraged us to design for versatility. Talking about Saudi, where we have our flagship store, the consumer has long been sophisticated and well-travelled, but in recent years Saudi Arabia’s luxury market has experienced remarkable growth and change, especially for heritage-driven brands like Azza Fahmy. There has been a heightened appreciation for craftsmanship, cultural storytelling, and authenticity in luxury goods.

TRJ: Azza Fahmy has been in the business for over five decades. What’s the key to sustaining creativity?

AG: Continuous learning is at the heart of our brand. My mother never stops learning and applying—she still takes courses and learns from young designers. This culture of curiosity and humility extends across our company. Employees feel a strong sense of ownership, which engages loyalty and innovation. We believe that the more the industry grows, the more we grow. That’s why we invest in education, craftsmanship, and new creative frontiers beyond jewellery.

TRJ: What does the future hold for Azza Fahmy?

AG: The sky is the limit. While jewellery remains our core, we are exploring adjacent creative fields. My mother’s autobiography, originally in Arabic, has now been translated into English, further cementing our legacy on a global scale. Whether through retail expansion, new design frontiers, or collaborations, our journey is about continuously pushing boundaries while staying true to our heritage.