High jewellery collections at Paris’ Couture see brands reimagine classic pieces for 2024

Cartier’s latest chapter draws inspiration from flora and fauna while at Dior, Victoire de Castellane’s ‘Délicat’ collection focuses on couture detailing

Paris: The summer high-jewellery presentations in July showcase extravagant collections reflecting the creative directors’ imaginative scope. Conversely, the smaller January editions focus on revisiting Maison’s archive, adapting its treasures for a modern audience. Boucheron, for instance, explored its historic use of rock crystal for a monochromatic collection inspired by ceremonial regalia. 

Chaumet drew inspiration from bird motifs ingrained in its repertoire for 240 years. Cartier, with its ‘Le Voyage Recommencé’ chapter, delved into a century-long legacy, and Louis Vuitton, a relative newcomer, reimagined ancient history through collar necklaces, cuffs, and cocktail rings.

Major jewellery houses, rather than being hindered by the past, leverage it to fuel creativity and craftsmanship, delivering remarkable pieces for today’s discerning audience.

Cartier’s latest chapter, an extension of ‘Le Voyage Recommencé,’ draws inspiration from flora and fauna, presenting dazzling necklaces, sea urchin-like pieces, prowling panthers, and a spectacular ‘Yfalos’ suite with bold hues reminiscent of a tropical coral reef.

At Dior, Victoire de Castellane’s ‘Délicat’ collection focuses on couture detailing, honoring Christian Dior’s intricate embroidery. Fine lines of diamonds mimic precise stitches, while rose gold is hand-carved into lacy ‘ribbon’ strips, showcasing supreme craftsmanship.

Boucheron’s creative director, Claire Choisne, elevates rock crystal into precious jewels in the ‘Power of Couture’ collection. The material is frosted, sliced, and sculpted into military braids, bows, and frogging, providing a luminous contrast to diamonds. Transformability is a key feature, with detachable elements in almost every piece.

De Beers’ ‘Forces of Nature’ line pays tribute to southern Africa, featuring eye-catching rings crafted to resemble native animals. Each ring has a central diamond, with designs like the Lion Jacket ring surrounded by a ‘mane’ of beaded yellow gold.

Chaumet revisits the bird motif in ‘Un Air de Chaumet,’ blending innovative silhouettes with a flock of swallows, symbolizing happiness.

David Morris combines extraordinary gemstones and the Aurora Borealis in the ‘Skye’ collection. Gems in green, blue, and pink hues capture the Northern Lights’ ethereal colors, showcased in pieces like the ‘Starburst’ bangle and the ‘Horizon’ cocktail ring. The collection also highlights the use of rose-cut brilliants, a shape revived by Jeremy Morris over 20 years ago, as seen in the Asteria white diamond necklace.

Courtesy: harpersbazaar.com and Retail Jeweller World News