Vicenzaoro- Memorable Jewels and New Collections

All eyes of the jewellery world were trained firmly on Vicenza during Vicenzaoro. From innovative designs and alluring jewels to digital talks, gem talks, and new launches, we bring you unmissable highlights from the most endearing jewellery showcase this fall. The show organised by the Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) threw the spotlight on trends with a summit ‘Visio. Next: Trends,’ along with the launch of the TrendBook. We scoured the exhibitions to find eye-catching jewels. Here’s our list of memorable jewels and new collections from 10 leading brands at Vicenzaoro:

Annamaria Cammilli

Annamaria Cammilli’s new collections with a minimalist approach were informed by Japan and Japanese design. The Niwa line with special fi nishes is framed by a row of diamonds, while the Luxor collection is randomly punctuated with diamonds. The subtle difference in the tones of gold that the designer uses and the surface texturing employed make the creations stand out. Annamaria Cammilli’s Yellow Sunrise, Pink Champagne, Natural Beige and Black Lava gold serves up a palette of seven colours of gold to play with. These tones have been employed in the jewels recently crafted to celebrate the brand’s 35th anniversary. The anniversary line features a pendant, earrings, ring all adorned with stylised blossoms set in a harmonious way.

Antonini

Milan-based Antonini’s ode to coloured gems led to its “haute couture collection.” The Extraordinaire collection features one-off pieces designed by Sergio Antonini. Inspirations from Italian design and tradition are translated into wearable jewels. Arresting gems are handpicked by the designer and embellished to transform into statement pieces. The new jewels unveiled at the autumn show included a pair of Mirror earrings featuring emeralds surrounded by diamonds, Mosaic ring, pearl and diamond necklaces and a ruby cocktail ring accented with diamonds.

Autore

For nearly three decades, Australian South Sea pearl farmer and jeweller Autore has been transforming the perception of pearls and bridging the classic-contemporary gap. Nature, architecture, galaxies are transformed into gorgeous jewellery embellished with diamonds, classic South Sea pearls and coloured gems. Technical innovations and meticulous craftsmanship come to the fore in the award-winning Dragon necklace and newer line, Stars and Galaxies. Celebrating pearls with a fresh take, Autore offers exciting new ways to wear the ‘Queen of Gems.’

Damiani

Damiani has explored creative possibilities by combining hitech ceramic with gold and diamonds. Modern designs in circular shapes form the core of its D.Icon collection available in classic colours of black and white as well as fun hues of cappuccino and pale blue carta da zucchero (sugar paper). The new D.Icon series, Rosa Confetto, features a delicate shade of pink. The Rosa Confetto collection draws upon traditional Italian candies and celebrations that are held throughout the country. The line includes necklaces, bracelet, earrings and rings crafted in ceramic and gold, and accented with diamonds.

Nanis

Born into a family of jewellers in Italy, charting her own path was a natural outcome for Laura Bicego. She honed her skills at her father’s factory and eventually set up her brand, Nanis in 1990. Noted for textured gold work, Nanis’ new collection, Dancing In The Rain Reverse, revealed jewels with a dual-face set with large natural stones encased by smaller gems and an alternate aspect pavéd with gems in bright colours. The Reverse asymmetrical earrings, bracelets, rings and necklace (featured here) have oval gem-encrusted elements and sumptuous detail, while deep burin engravings on gold beads, lends the matching necklace a mesmerizing effect. Green Labradorites and rock crystals, set in gold, are accented by diamonds and pavèd tsavorites, pink sapphires and amethysts in a cheerful collection that celebrates Italian craftsmanship. A pastel variation of the collection is set with London Blue Topaz and Swiss Blue Topaz.

Palmiero 6

Carlo Palmiero discovered a passion for crafting fine jewellery in his childhood and went on to establish Palmiero in 1979. The luxury jewellery brand has flourished over the years, adding to its repertoire timeless pieces, richly encrusted in gemstones and diamonds. Carlo Palmiero’s fine eye for detail shimmers through his work, as he references geometric shapes, nature and art. The mesmerizing Dancing Soul flexible necklace, crafted in white gold, gleams with white diamonds and rubies, while the Swan brooch – also in white gold – sparkles with paved white and black diamonds and sapphires. The Embracing Flowers rings feature chalcedony and opal surrounded by white diamonds, sapphires and semi-precious stones. The coloured gems lend themselves well to the wearable flowers from Palmiero’s jewellery garden. Alter Man, another stunning creation from the jeweller, is a patented watch featuring a Swiss movement. Its unique mechanism allows you to change the watch face, giving the dial a new appearance. Wonderfully clever!

Pasquale Bruni

Set up in 1997 by Pasquale Bruni, this family-run fine jewellery brand has wowed us for years with its stunning creations. Flowers are a perennial source of inspiration for jewellers and Pasquale Bruni translates beautiful blossoms into wearable high jewellery with leaves and petals crafted pavéd with diamonds or gems. Choker necklaces, a notable jewellery trend seen earlier this year,
saw Pasquale Bruni come up with Giardini Di Lakshmi necklaces, bracelets and earrings featuring pink chalcedony pavéd petals. The ravishing Vento Atelier bracelet and necklace, showcased
at Vicenzaoro, was a fascinating stack of white and rose gold diamond petals (layered atop one another), giving the design a three-dimensional approach. These are echoes of the brand at its
best, reimagining splendour in a way only Pasquale Bruni can.

Picchiotti 8

The family-run brand, founded by Giuseppe Picchiotti celebrated its 50th anniversary at Baselworld with novelties. It unveiled new additions to the core collection, including rings and bracelets set with coloured gems and diamonds, using the Xpandable technique. This fall, rock crystals, set in gold, formed the key element of design for its Rock Crystal collection: faceted emeralds, rubies, and pink and blue sapphires are framed by carved rock crystal stones imbued with a satin finish. Diamonds add a hint of sparkle to this new line from Picchiotti.

Roberto Coin

In 1996, Venice born Roberto Coin created a jewellery brand bearing his own name. That was twenty-two years ago. His innate love of fashion, history, art and nature has always proved to be a deep source of inspiration. His latest collection, Roman Barocco, is a reflection of the beauty of the Italian city, which emperor Adrian consecrated as the Eternal City. Inspired by the architecture of Rome, interwoven gold threads alternate in a series of diamond-studded motifs along the Roman Barocco bangles, earrings, rings and pendants. Each piece of jewellery is accented with a small ruby set inside so as to touch the skin of the wearer – a signature design element.

Garavelli

Elisabetta Molina is a fourth-generation jeweller helming Garavelli, as its creative director, along with her brother Stefano Molina, a gemologist. The traditional and classic designs that were once the hallmark of the brand have made way for contemporary and fashion-forward pieces. “Diamond is king” in Garavelli’s designs either in the form of the main gem featured in the jewel or an enhancer to coloured stones. Last year, Garavelli’s sculptural cuff, A Little Chaos, bagged the Couture design award for ‘Best in Diamonds Below $20,000.’ “We wanted to make a statement about life. And we wanted to express our understanding of the beauty, the choices, the peak and valleys, the paths we follow, and finally, how we end up where we are today,” explains Elisabetta. This season, the brand has showcased new iterations for the cuff bracelet crafted in rose gold and brought out new floral pieces. Innovative techniques, fluid forms and modern aesthetics define Elisabetta’s latest creations.